Mike Yeung is known as a designer for trendsetters - particularly those with a taste for independence and keen attention to detail.
The Hong Kong-based fashion designer takes a structural yet artistic approach to his clothes, his background in architecture perhaps having something to do with this functional approach.
"I'm intrigued by the structural concept of things," Yeung said.
"I like Lego and build different model figures. So when I was learning and now working on fashion designs, I'm very much focusing on pattern and the structure of the clothing pieces."
Cliche as it may sound, Yeung had never thought of working in the fashion field.
"I was actually going to study interior design in Australia, but then I guess you could say it's the inspiration and admiration I had toward some of the fashion designers? I came across a few of their works and was inspired by that. And so I ended up studying fashion design instead."
After graduating with top honors from the University of Arts London, he began work for a handful of labels, including BEAMS and Acne Studios.
"I did some capsule projects with Acne before, but [not] designing. I was handling ODM - original design manufacturing - and stock-keeping for them, back when they had this line called Acne Outdoor."
In 2017, he launched his own label, Nilmance - a portmanteau of "nil-performance." The brand draws inspiration from everyday life, human movement, and the impact of climate change on fashion and lifestyle choices, without being fixated on a certain theme and style.
Yeung's schoolmates may have been surprised to learn that he started a menswear brand, since he actually graduated with a degree in womenswear design. "Womenswear was more versatile and flexible to me back then. I had a simple understanding on menswear pieces when I just started studying fashion design," he said.
"My impression toward menswear was on a surface level. I was not that keen on it because I thought it only circled around the formality and was heavy on tailoring. But of course it was because I didn't go in detail [on the subject of menswear]."
Yeung closely observes the interactions between garments and human movement, resulting in pieces that are both stylish and practical. "The1990s-2000s Maison Margiela, the deconstruction and reconstruction concept, had quite an impact on my clothing design."
Nilmance is recognized for utilitarian pieces that boast bold silhouettes and refined details, exuding a confident, independent style.
"Design inspiration usually comes from the surroundings. As for the utilitarian approach, even before I started doing design I've been quite into military-themed items and had been collecting them ever since."
A key aspect of Nilmance's appeal is its commitment to employing advanced materials that enhance the functionality of each garment.
The brand's signature fabrics are designed for water resistance, ensuring that each piece is lightweight yet durable, perfectly suited for the rigors of urban living, from water- and wind-resistant blazers to antibacterial shirts.
Its 2024 autumn-winter collection, Still in Motion, sticks to the brand's core value of practicality with an artistic element. It takes inspiration from contemporary arts and sculpture that emphasize the movement of an object in stillness.
"Since the brand is centered around utility and we've been focusing on how to balance aesthetic with movement, we want the wearer to feel the movement of the garment and also pay attention to the cutting and details," he said. "We tried to implement trends into our clothing as well, but not to an extent where it twists or [diverts from] the functional concept."
The designer has hinted at deep contemplation as an essential ingredient in his process.
"Perhaps it is time for us to pause for a while; this is [our] 10th season We're trying to navigate what's next for the brand and we'll be more than happy to do a pop-up in fashion week - but at an irregular pace and pattern."
As Nilmance continues to evolve, it remains a sought-after collaborator in the fashion industry, offering visually striking pieces that are purposefully designed to tackle the challenges of today's world, and emphasizing the importance of functionality in a stylish urban wardrobe.
(The Standard | Weekend Glitz)
