Sustainability may be today’s fashion mantra, but Angus Tsui has been living it for more than a decade, weaving it into his values and designs. Now, through his label and the ANCares project, he’s connecting brands and corporations with the aim of making sustainable fashion something everyone can engage with.
Tell us about your personal style.
My aesthetic sits between nostalgic and futuristic.
When you launched Angus Tsui in 2014, sustainability was far from mainstream. What sparked that vision back then?
I became aware of how deeply fashion impacts the environment. From then on, sustainability became central to how I design, with the hope of contributing to a better future for both industry and community.
How has your definition of “sustainable fashion” evolved as you think about the next decade?
Transparency and traceability will take centre stage in the fashion industry. Over time, I imagine it will become standard practice, as both the industry and consumers gain a better understanding of the topic.
Your work is often described as avant-garde, hinting at what fashion might become. What does the idea of “future fashion” mean to you?
I think of fashion as a way of breaking boundaries and challenging people’s mindsets on how they perceive what they wear.
Where do your wildest inspirations come from?
I guess you could say I’m a total sci-fi nerd. Movies like Alien, Blade Runner and 2001: A Space Odyssey have had a big influence on the way I approach design.
Which techniques or materials from your recent collections are most promising for sustainable fashion?
We’ve been incorporating exoskeleton-inspired details through pleating in all our designs, creating a distinct brand identity that makes our work instantly recognisable. Lately, we’ve been working with sustainable denim and recycled knit yarns, which significantly cut down energy use and pollution during production.
What would you like young designers to unlearn about sustainability?
Sustainable design doesn’t mean settling for ordinary or boring pieces. Fashion is still about creating designs that people want, while using that desire to make a positive impact.
Which emerging technologies or materials are you most excited to explore in the next phase of your brand?
We recently explored plant-based fur, which could be transformative, giving the industry and consumers a viable, sustainable alternative.
What’s the most unexpected fashion item you’ve owned?
Earrings! I got my ears pierced for the first time. It feels like I’ve opened a Pandora’s box – I’m completely obsessed.
What inspired you to start ANCares, and how does it influence your work as a designer?
I started ANCares because I know fashion can often feel distant and hard to relate to. The idea is to connect corporations and brands, tackle their challenges and raise awareness in a more grounded, meaningful way.
Can you give an example of a project with a non-fashion institution that shaped the way you think about fashion’s role in society?
We recently collaborated with DHL to turn its retired uniforms into a capsule collection of upcycled bags, with proceeds supporting Redress and sustainable design projects. Uniforms are often discarded, despite their craftsmanship and stories. With a little creativity, we saw an opportunity to make a positive impact.
Looking back, which collaboration stands out as the one you’re most proud of – and what made it special?
For the TINY STUDIO showcase at Design Inspire, curated by Chilai Howard from NNNNNNN, we created a replica fashion workshop. Rather than letting the finished designs take all the attention, we put the spotlight on our beloved seamstress Sandy and the stitches she brings to life. I’ve known Sandy since my graduate collection in 2013. She’s one of Hong Kong’s most skilled seamstresses. It meant so much to honour the craftsmanship and dedication of the true heroes behind every collection.
If you could collaborate with a figure from another field for your next collection, who would it be and why?
For our upcoming collection, we’re collaborating with a music artist. The tracks we’re producing will bring the audience closer to the designs, creating a truly immersive experience.
If you had to pick one brand or designer leading fashion into the future, who would it be?
Forever John Galliano.
Looking ahead, what’s the next step for Angus Tsui and ANCares?
Next month we return to London Fashion Week, turning the page to a new chapter as our brand embarks on its second decade.
By Alix Lefebvre
